Today, I received an email message from the Canadian Embassy regarding a travel advisory for Peru. Here is an excerpt:
The Canadian Embassy in Peru wishes to inform Canadians travelling in and around the Lake Titicaca and Puno area of travel difficulties due to miners' strikes and demonstrations since May 9, 2011. As it is an indefinite strike, we cannot estimate when it will be lifted. Roads to enter/exit the cities of Puno and Juliaca, where the airport is located, are currently blocked. The road to Desaguadero border with Bolivia (located in the Peruvian region of Puno) is also blocked by local protesters. Travellers are strongly advised to avoid this route.
Interesting, and not just because of the persistent misspelling of "travelling" and "travellers". Obviously, I already had my trip to Puno and Lake Titicaca, and do not need to be too concerned, although I was unaware until today that a strike started just a week after I left the area. I've been trying to keep up to date on Peruvian news, but the upcoming second-round of elections on June 5th must have overshadowed this somehow. Sad that I'd missed out on reading more earlier, I decided to dig deeper, and what I found was really intriguing.
In order to determine what's really going on here, you need to read between the lines of the Canadian Embassy's statement. What they fail to mention is that the "miners" they referring to are are actually citizens protesting the presence of the Canadian mining company Bear Creek, which locals fear will contaminate rivers and lakes in the process of silver extraction. Just a small oversight, failing to mention this in the email I received, I'm sure. Nor does it mention that the protests are entirely peaceful.
I've been surprised by the extent of Canadian impact on Peru since arriving in Lima. There are Scotiabanks all throughout Miraflores, which was a bit of a surprise, and obviously the presence of Canadian mining corporations is a prevalent factor in the background of this. Although I'm sure Puno wouldn't be the safest place to be right now as a Canadian citizen, part of me wishes I had the chance to pick up a sign and join the protests.
Thursday 26 May 2011
Wednesday 25 May 2011
Random Reflections
I thought rather than doing a full blog post today, I would just list a random collection of reflections on various things I've seen and done in Lima.
- There's nothing quite like taking a combi ride through the streets of Lima. A combi is basically a bus, although some are more like vans. Yesterday, I took four separate combis, each one a unique experience in and of itself. From the porters yelling out destinations trying to attract customers to an already jammed packed bus, to trying to keep your balance when the bus suddenly veers off to the side of the road to pick someone up. Not to mention that its scary enough when the tiny inconspicuous taxi makes a quick lane change, nevermind when your bus jumps out in front of another bus forcing it to slam on its brakes. A common occurrence, I assure you. Plus, where else can you purchase a slice of apple-pie mid-transit?
- The food in Lima has been incredible so far, and I still have lots to try. My favourite dish is aji de gallina, a chicken dish served in a spicy yellow cream sauce with rice and potatoes. It is absolutely delicious. Some other highlights (besides the sandwich and juice I've raved about) include lomo saltado, a steak stirfry with rice, potatoes (ie. french fries), tomatoes and lots of onions, and trout that I had while on the island of Taquile on Lake Titicaca. Also, yuquitos (yucca fries stuffed with cheese served with aji dip). Yum. Next on the menu? I've yet to try Lima's famous ceviches, and perhaps I'll attempt the infamous cuy (guinea pig) if I'm feeling brave.
- As of this Friday, it will have been one month since I got on the plane to fly to Peru. Where. Has. Time. Gone?
- I've only had a few embarrassing moments of Spanish thus far on my trip. Lots of stuttered sentences and jumbled conjugations, but rarely anything too bad. The other day, however, I was at the grocery store and tried to tell the cashier that I didn't need a plastic bag because I would put the stuff in my backpack. But I blanked on the word for backpack. What came out instead was "shirt". Backpack = mochila. Shirt = camisa. Lesson learned.
- There's nothing quite like taking a combi ride through the streets of Lima. A combi is basically a bus, although some are more like vans. Yesterday, I took four separate combis, each one a unique experience in and of itself. From the porters yelling out destinations trying to attract customers to an already jammed packed bus, to trying to keep your balance when the bus suddenly veers off to the side of the road to pick someone up. Not to mention that its scary enough when the tiny inconspicuous taxi makes a quick lane change, nevermind when your bus jumps out in front of another bus forcing it to slam on its brakes. A common occurrence, I assure you. Plus, where else can you purchase a slice of apple-pie mid-transit?
- The food in Lima has been incredible so far, and I still have lots to try. My favourite dish is aji de gallina, a chicken dish served in a spicy yellow cream sauce with rice and potatoes. It is absolutely delicious. Some other highlights (besides the sandwich and juice I've raved about) include lomo saltado, a steak stirfry with rice, potatoes (ie. french fries), tomatoes and lots of onions, and trout that I had while on the island of Taquile on Lake Titicaca. Also, yuquitos (yucca fries stuffed with cheese served with aji dip). Yum. Next on the menu? I've yet to try Lima's famous ceviches, and perhaps I'll attempt the infamous cuy (guinea pig) if I'm feeling brave.
- As of this Friday, it will have been one month since I got on the plane to fly to Peru. Where. Has. Time. Gone?
- I've only had a few embarrassing moments of Spanish thus far on my trip. Lots of stuttered sentences and jumbled conjugations, but rarely anything too bad. The other day, however, I was at the grocery store and tried to tell the cashier that I didn't need a plastic bag because I would put the stuff in my backpack. But I blanked on the word for backpack. What came out instead was "shirt". Backpack = mochila. Shirt = camisa. Lesson learned.
Sunday 22 May 2011
Adventures in Miraflores
I finally took the time this weekend to really explore Miraflores, the region in Lima where BaseCamp is located. I had gone wandering around before, but until the last couple of days, I hadn't really taken the time to try and take it in. So, yesterday I set out with a plan to see some of the various sites in Miraflores.
I started off with a trip to the archeological site Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan pyramid located in the middle of the city, only 5 blocks from BaseCamp. I really enjoyed the brief tour through the ruins and the chance to see many of the artifacts discovered at the site. The pyramid is made out of mud-bricks, which are shaped and stacked so that the structure somewhat resembles a book-shelf. Apparently it was built this way to withstand seismic activity, which I found astounding given that the structure dates back to at least the 4th century.
I then proceeded to walk over to the ocean, and down the cliffs along the coastline. I stopped by "El Parque de Amor" (the park of love) which has a rather unique statue of two people making out. Interesting, to say the least. The surrounding walls/benches covered in mosaic tiles and personal messages were really nice though. I then continued down to the shopping center on the ocean, Larco Mar, and stopped for a Submarino Havanna at the Havanna Cafe. It was basically a hot chocolate, but they brought me a glass of extremely warm milk and a bar of chocolate, and I sat there confused for a minute. I then figured out I was supposed to drop the chocolate bar into the milk. Oh, the perils of ordering something without fully understanding what your asking for. :)
Last night after dinner, Romy (an amazing friend of those at BaseCamp who often takes volunteers on tours to see parts of Lima) took me to see El Parque de la Reserva, which is a park with a ton of amazing fountains near the center of Lima. It was a great night, and the fountains are spectacular. Getting the chance to learn more about Peruvian history and the history of the park from Romy was also great.
Today, I haven't been quite so adventurous, but after lots of research on my computer as to where I should go for lunch, I decided to try out the sandwich place called El Enano. I apologize to my foodie friends, because I forgot to bring my camera, but I will for sure be back, so no worries, I'll remember next time. I ordered a Chicharron sandwich (pork), which came with mayo, and aji (Peruvian hot pepper) sauce. It was absolutely delicious, and I don't want to detract from it's deliciousness by saying this, but the really impressive part of the meal was the juice. They have a ridiculous number of juice selections on their massive menu, making it a very difficult decision between the number of different combinations. I finally settled on papaya-pineapple juice which was incredible. I foresee many trips back in the next few months to try different juice and sandwich combos.
Overall, I feel like this time spent exploring has helped me see more and more of Lima, and hopefully given me a greater appreciation of the complexity of the city. Although Miraflores is evidently one of the nicest areas in Lima, and the one which is most geared to tourism, having these types of experiences has helped me learn a lot. I still feel as though the language barrier is holding me back from fully engaging with people in these everyday situations, but things are definitely improving bit by bit.
I started off with a trip to the archeological site Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan pyramid located in the middle of the city, only 5 blocks from BaseCamp. I really enjoyed the brief tour through the ruins and the chance to see many of the artifacts discovered at the site. The pyramid is made out of mud-bricks, which are shaped and stacked so that the structure somewhat resembles a book-shelf. Apparently it was built this way to withstand seismic activity, which I found astounding given that the structure dates back to at least the 4th century.
Me at Huaca Pucllana
I then proceeded to walk over to the ocean, and down the cliffs along the coastline. I stopped by "El Parque de Amor" (the park of love) which has a rather unique statue of two people making out. Interesting, to say the least. The surrounding walls/benches covered in mosaic tiles and personal messages were really nice though. I then continued down to the shopping center on the ocean, Larco Mar, and stopped for a Submarino Havanna at the Havanna Cafe. It was basically a hot chocolate, but they brought me a glass of extremely warm milk and a bar of chocolate, and I sat there confused for a minute. I then figured out I was supposed to drop the chocolate bar into the milk. Oh, the perils of ordering something without fully understanding what your asking for. :)
Last night after dinner, Romy (an amazing friend of those at BaseCamp who often takes volunteers on tours to see parts of Lima) took me to see El Parque de la Reserva, which is a park with a ton of amazing fountains near the center of Lima. It was a great night, and the fountains are spectacular. Getting the chance to learn more about Peruvian history and the history of the park from Romy was also great.
Today, I haven't been quite so adventurous, but after lots of research on my computer as to where I should go for lunch, I decided to try out the sandwich place called El Enano. I apologize to my foodie friends, because I forgot to bring my camera, but I will for sure be back, so no worries, I'll remember next time. I ordered a Chicharron sandwich (pork), which came with mayo, and aji (Peruvian hot pepper) sauce. It was absolutely delicious, and I don't want to detract from it's deliciousness by saying this, but the really impressive part of the meal was the juice. They have a ridiculous number of juice selections on their massive menu, making it a very difficult decision between the number of different combinations. I finally settled on papaya-pineapple juice which was incredible. I foresee many trips back in the next few months to try different juice and sandwich combos.
Overall, I feel like this time spent exploring has helped me see more and more of Lima, and hopefully given me a greater appreciation of the complexity of the city. Although Miraflores is evidently one of the nicest areas in Lima, and the one which is most geared to tourism, having these types of experiences has helped me learn a lot. I still feel as though the language barrier is holding me back from fully engaging with people in these everyday situations, but things are definitely improving bit by bit.
Wednesday 18 May 2011
Lima! BaseCamp! Work!
Gah!! So much stuff to talk about!! I've been a horrible blogger, and neglected posting anything on here since I've started my placement. Or even since I've settled into BaseCamp in Lima. Blog fail. I will and fit massive amounts of information into this post, without making it so long that you need to take a nap halfway through.
First off, BaseCamp. For the duration of my placement, I am staying at a house in the Miraflores district of Lima which is run by a Canadian organization called BaseCamp for volunteers abroad. It has been amazing to find somewhere to settle in and call my home for three months. Despite the cold showers and occasional cockroach, I really am liking it here. Right now it's a very full house. There are 18 people here from U of T doing a placement in a local school for 3ish weeks before traveling to Cusco, as well as two other volunteers, Jen the live-in placement coordinator, and me!
Lima is an incredible city. I still don't feel like I've really had the chance to appreciate it fully, because I've been limited to where I live (Miraflores), work (Jesus Maria) and have visited (Barranco) thus far, but what I have seen has been really interesting. Its most defining characteristic thus far is the traffic. Traffic laws which I thought were essential to survival have proven to be optional. A two lane road is surprisingly wide enough for four cars across. So far I've taken two cab rides where the taxi has stalled in the middle of the road due to lack of gas. It has been an interesting and somewhat frightening experience at times, but earlier this week I found myself actually wishing my cab would drive more aggressively, which scares me. No one let me anywhere near a car when I get home, not that I drive anyways.
Work has been incredibly interesting thus far. Speaking only Spanish with everyone at the office has proven to be a challenge at times, but everyone has been incredibly understanding and has helped me work through it when my vocabulary comes up short. My first week was a lot of reading through documents about EDAPROSPO as a basis for me to work from, and then I started working on developing questionnaires for surveying various employees of the PROSPERIDAD program for their input in the strategic plan. Tomorrow I'm actually taking a break from strategic planning, and the president of EDAPROSPO, Marcial, is going to take me to see CREDIVAC - a work cooperative. It should be amazing. Next week I think I may start interviewing people for strategic planning, so things are starting to pick up and get busy. I've already learned a lot about microfinance, and can't imagine what 9 more weeks will do.
Ok, that is a really broad summary of what I've been up to. I'll try to post some more specific fun stories in the next few days, and avoid neglecting the blog again in the future!
First off, BaseCamp. For the duration of my placement, I am staying at a house in the Miraflores district of Lima which is run by a Canadian organization called BaseCamp for volunteers abroad. It has been amazing to find somewhere to settle in and call my home for three months. Despite the cold showers and occasional cockroach, I really am liking it here. Right now it's a very full house. There are 18 people here from U of T doing a placement in a local school for 3ish weeks before traveling to Cusco, as well as two other volunteers, Jen the live-in placement coordinator, and me!
Lima is an incredible city. I still don't feel like I've really had the chance to appreciate it fully, because I've been limited to where I live (Miraflores), work (Jesus Maria) and have visited (Barranco) thus far, but what I have seen has been really interesting. Its most defining characteristic thus far is the traffic. Traffic laws which I thought were essential to survival have proven to be optional. A two lane road is surprisingly wide enough for four cars across. So far I've taken two cab rides where the taxi has stalled in the middle of the road due to lack of gas. It has been an interesting and somewhat frightening experience at times, but earlier this week I found myself actually wishing my cab would drive more aggressively, which scares me. No one let me anywhere near a car when I get home, not that I drive anyways.
Work has been incredibly interesting thus far. Speaking only Spanish with everyone at the office has proven to be a challenge at times, but everyone has been incredibly understanding and has helped me work through it when my vocabulary comes up short. My first week was a lot of reading through documents about EDAPROSPO as a basis for me to work from, and then I started working on developing questionnaires for surveying various employees of the PROSPERIDAD program for their input in the strategic plan. Tomorrow I'm actually taking a break from strategic planning, and the president of EDAPROSPO, Marcial, is going to take me to see CREDIVAC - a work cooperative. It should be amazing. Next week I think I may start interviewing people for strategic planning, so things are starting to pick up and get busy. I've already learned a lot about microfinance, and can't imagine what 9 more weeks will do.
Ok, that is a really broad summary of what I've been up to. I'll try to post some more specific fun stories in the next few days, and avoid neglecting the blog again in the future!
Friday 6 May 2011
"Tourism"
As I'm coming to the end of traveling before I head back to Lima tomorrow and start my placement on Monday, I've been reflecting on the idea of "tourism" and how it ties into notions of "development" or "underdevelopment" and representational inequality. Since the last post, I've traveled to Cusco by train, done a tour of the city, and of the Sacred Valley, and visited Machu Picchu yesterday (side note - yes, Machu Picchu is absolutely fantastic, and it was a dream come true to get to experience it). I've really enjoyed the perspective that being a tourist and getting to see many of the sites of Peru has allowed, but I've also had lots of awkward experiences and been fairly uncomfortable with how a "tourist" sees Peru.
My most uncomfortable experience thus far has been my train ride from Puno to Cusco. I booked it kind of without thinking - it was rather expensive, but it sounded like a great way to see the countryside and Andes. I toyed with the idea of taking the bus, but knowing that I would only have been in Peru for 2 days, I thought that the easiest option, one that was least likely to backfire and probably the safest, would be best. I had no idea what I was getting myself into.
The train was ridiculously luxurious. Little did I know that before PeruRail operated the train service, it was actually the Orient Express. The colonial implications of that fact were still very evident on my train ride earlier this week. To describe how it felt, I'm going to go into more detail about a couple occurrences. Firstly, the train goes from Puno through Juliaca on its way to Cusco, as well as many other small towns, but Juliaca was the strangest experience. Vendors had set up along either side of the train tracks, so it felt like those of us on the train were plowing right through the middle of everything and disrupting the lives of those in Juliaca. It was basically an experience of looking out of our windows from our luxurious trains and comfortable seats to "see" how the people of Peru lived. However, the most uncomfortable experience for me was when we had a band from Puno play for us on the train. They were all dressed in bright colours, and playing "traditional" Peruvian music and singing in Aymara. Then, a Peruvian woman, rather scantily clad, came and danced for the passengers. I couldn't help but wonder what Edward Said would have thought of the spectacle. Afterwards, we went back to our seats, and were served tea and sandwiches with the crusts cut off. I actually laughed out loud.
As much as the experience of the train made me uncomfortable, and as much as I probably would never choose to take a the train again, I appreciate the perspective that this and all of the other activities I've participated in have given me. For me, it has been more of a reflection on how tourists from around the world engage with Peru than a reflection on Peru itself. Obviously, "tourism" is contextual, and many tourists have radically different experiences than mine on the train. That, however, does not mean that some are less problematic. Last night on my bus back from Machu Picchu, there was a guy from Austria talking to someone about how he had lived in Lima for 7 months now (I was horribly eavesdropping, but the insight is important, so I feel like I have to share). He was talking about how he "knew" the culture in Lima from having spent so much time there, and I couldn't help but feel like this perspective was also problematic.
I've really appreciated the chance to get to see much of Peru, but I'm really looking forward to starting my placement now. It will be nice to settle in somewhere, make some longer-term relationships, and get to see something that the average visitor to Peru doesn't see.
My most uncomfortable experience thus far has been my train ride from Puno to Cusco. I booked it kind of without thinking - it was rather expensive, but it sounded like a great way to see the countryside and Andes. I toyed with the idea of taking the bus, but knowing that I would only have been in Peru for 2 days, I thought that the easiest option, one that was least likely to backfire and probably the safest, would be best. I had no idea what I was getting myself into.
The train was ridiculously luxurious. Little did I know that before PeruRail operated the train service, it was actually the Orient Express. The colonial implications of that fact were still very evident on my train ride earlier this week. To describe how it felt, I'm going to go into more detail about a couple occurrences. Firstly, the train goes from Puno through Juliaca on its way to Cusco, as well as many other small towns, but Juliaca was the strangest experience. Vendors had set up along either side of the train tracks, so it felt like those of us on the train were plowing right through the middle of everything and disrupting the lives of those in Juliaca. It was basically an experience of looking out of our windows from our luxurious trains and comfortable seats to "see" how the people of Peru lived. However, the most uncomfortable experience for me was when we had a band from Puno play for us on the train. They were all dressed in bright colours, and playing "traditional" Peruvian music and singing in Aymara. Then, a Peruvian woman, rather scantily clad, came and danced for the passengers. I couldn't help but wonder what Edward Said would have thought of the spectacle. Afterwards, we went back to our seats, and were served tea and sandwiches with the crusts cut off. I actually laughed out loud.
As much as the experience of the train made me uncomfortable, and as much as I probably would never choose to take a the train again, I appreciate the perspective that this and all of the other activities I've participated in have given me. For me, it has been more of a reflection on how tourists from around the world engage with Peru than a reflection on Peru itself. Obviously, "tourism" is contextual, and many tourists have radically different experiences than mine on the train. That, however, does not mean that some are less problematic. Last night on my bus back from Machu Picchu, there was a guy from Austria talking to someone about how he had lived in Lima for 7 months now (I was horribly eavesdropping, but the insight is important, so I feel like I have to share). He was talking about how he "knew" the culture in Lima from having spent so much time there, and I couldn't help but feel like this perspective was also problematic.
Me on the train....
I've really appreciated the chance to get to see much of Peru, but I'm really looking forward to starting my placement now. It will be nice to settle in somewhere, make some longer-term relationships, and get to see something that the average visitor to Peru doesn't see.
Sunday 1 May 2011
Puno
Guess what? I'm in Peru!! After a long day of travel on Friday, I landed in Lima at 12:45ish local time (which is an hour behind EST due to daylight savings, which I probably should have realised but didn't), slept briefly, and took off the next morning at 7:15 for Juliaca. After landing in Juliaca, I got a car to my hotel in Puno. That afternoon I visited Sillustani on a tour. Sillustani is a peninsula on Lake Titicaca where traditional funeral towers (chullpas) have been built since the pre-Inca period. It was an incredible visit, but the little bit of hiking required was rough given the altitude sickness (soroche). Luckily, all that I've experienced is some shortness of breath, and a minor headache, which is much better than I anticipated. The picture above is one that I took of a chullpa at Sillustani. Afterwards, I visited the Cathedral and a museum, and went for dinner. My first cena in Peru was alpaca in quinoa sauce. It was interesting. Alpaca isn't my favourite meat, but it was worth experiencing.
Early this morning I left from the port of Puno to go on a tour of some of the many islands on Lake Titicaca. First, we visited the floating islands of Uros, which was incredible. The approximately 200 Uros islands are built from the roots of reeds and reeds themselves, and then anchored to the bottom of the lake. It was a very cool experience, and the people were very welcoming. Afterwards, we continued our tour and visited the island of Taquile where approximately 4000 people live. The people speak mainly Quechua, but many also speak Spanish, and are work mostly in agriculture and some fishing. In both cases, it was interesting to see how they lived, but I'm not sure what to make of the accentuated "authenticity" and "traditions". It felt like a front for tourism, and I would have liked to have had the chance to talk to some of the people and ask more questions.
I'm feeling slightly awkward as a tourist so far on my visit. I really am unsure of how to engage with many of the people I meet. Firstly, I've encountered some problems with the language. Yesterday, when I was feeling kind of groggy, it felt like I couldn't speak or understand English, nevermind Spanish. Today was better, but it is still an obstacle. Being a tourist is unsettling outside of the language barrier as well. Engaging with anyone so far has really made me aware of my positionality as a white tourist, and so far I have found the experience a bit paralyzing. People treat me as a tourist, as is to be expected, but I'm not really sure how to go about changing that. The fact of the matter is, right now I am a tourist, but I am really bad at acting like one. In not wanting to act purely like a tourist, but not being sure of how to avoid it, my response has been to lock up, and not engage with those around me as much as I would like. I hope to turn this around on the next leg of my trip to Cusco, and try to engage more with everything and everyone around me despite issues with the language and uncomfortableness with the position I am in.
I leave Puno by train at 8:00am tomorrow, and will be in Cusco after that. I don't think the hostel/hotel I'm staying in has internet, so there may be a bit of a delay before my next post. Until then, I miss everyone back home and really wish that you could be here with me!
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